BLADENBORO

As it turned out though, the Bladen County couple made a career of farming and has done so well they have won recognition as the 2006 North Carolina Small Farmers of the Year. Their aptly named Happy Land Farms is a thriving 600-acre spread that includes 500 pasture-raised hogs, pasture-raised chickens and turkeys, and 500 acres of soybeans and corn. They also own a fleet of six flat-bed trucks and operate a day care center attended by 24 children.

That might come about, under a partnership between North Carolina Agricultural and Technical State University and Wilson restaurant owner and renowned "Pitmaster" Eddie Mitchell. Together, they hope to develop a plan to market organic barbecue from pork produced by small-scale hog farmers in North Carolina.

The understanding will be made official at a signing ceremony 11 a.m. Thursday, Jan. 27, in the Fort Interdisciplinary Research Center on Market Street, to be followed by a sampling of pork barbecue.

Though details remain to be worked out, the plan is for animal sciences researchers at A&T to develop a production and certification method for producing pork with a signature flavor that Mitchell would be proud to market across the country under his "Pitmaster" label. The method would be more suitable for small-scale hog farmers than large producers, because of its reliance on hardy, outdoor breeds, traditional rearing and husbandry practices and special diets that often include pasture.

"We are delighted that this partnership with Mr. Mitchell is coming together," said Dr. Alton Thompson, dean of the School of Agriculture and Environmental Sciences, "When the project fully matures, small farmers stand to benefit by having a reliable market for their product that offers growth potential."

Preliminary research on pork flavor at A&T, conducted with grants from the Golden LEAF Foundation and has won thumbs up from several taste panels, and has garnered high praise from Mitchell, as well as other nationally-renowned chefs and food critics Those initial trials prompted Mitchell to approach the University and suggest the partnership.

"The University is known for its research into animal sciences, and pork flavor in particular," Mitchell said. "That was right down my line. I remember growing up, how barbecue was supposed to taste, with the slower growing breeds and without the antibiotics and hormones to speed growth. So we think this will be a good niche product for the farmers, for the barbecue and for the health-conscious consumer."

Cooperative Extension at A&T sees the project as an opportunity for limited-resource and down-sized tobacco farmers to supplement their income. Most small-scale hog producers have trouble finding a reliable market that will pay a premium price for antibiotic and hormone-free meat.

The University also plans to assist Mitchell in developing a marketing and distribution plan to expand sales of the barbecue, as well as his "Pitmaster" sauce, which he now sells at his restaurant, Mitchell's Ribs Chicken & BBQ. Mitchell has pledged $25,000 in scholarships to the University.

"Pitmaster" isn't a vanity title that Mitchell created for himself. Instead, it was a title he won in 2002 from the Southern Foodways Alliance, an organization dedicated to preserving and promoting southern foods and recipes. The title is reserved only for the best purveyors of barbecue.

Tarheels may consider barbecue humble fare, but recent efforts to produce a tastier, chemical-free meat have turned the dish into a fashionable sensation with haute cuisine chefs. Traditional barbecue in the North Carolina sense of the word - a whole hog, pit-roasted for 12 hours, basted with a vinegar-base sauce, pulled from the bone and chopped into a hash-like consistency - is something of a novelty in other regions.

Pork produced from A&T research has won national acclaim from food critics and restaurants, including the Magnolia Grill in Durham, the Weeping Radish in Manteo, and Il Buco in Manhattan, among others. New York Times food writer Peter Kaminsky became closely involved with the project while working on his recently-released book, "Pig Perfect."

Mitchell's special sauce and slow-roast technique that eschews gas or electric heat in favor of hickory and oak have also won him accolades from the likes of "Food Arts," "The New York Times," and other publications. Mitchell is playing a large role in ensuring Wilson and the state's reputation as barbecue capital continues to grow. Author and Southern Foodways Alliance director John T. Edge is visiting him this week for piece to be published in Gourmet" magazine about efforts to reclaim the taste of barbecue.